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Grover Turns 25
By Rajiv Singhal
Memory is rather short. Not many remember that wine in India dates back to the 1980s when two pioneers, Shamrao Chougule and Kanwal Grover set sights on growing grapes in India. Grover Vineyards was established in Nandi Hills near Bangalore and took the name of its founder.
I was first introduced to Kanwal Grover in 1999 (soon after I started to work the market for wines in India) at the mega exhibition, France-India: Towards 2000 by Bruno Yvon. As we sipped on some lively bubbles, Mr. Grover shared his passion with which he signed on support of champagne houses and experts to realise his dream of making wine in India. I managed to join some wine tastings (they were not as frequent a phenomena as they are today) with Mr. Grover and each time he would leave an impression with his knowledge.
The flagship of the company, La Reserve, was a favourite in India amongst Indian wines. And that was a bold statement in a landscape where most wines were simply coming across as basic, if at all.
Mr. Grover passed away in 2011, and left the company to his son Kapil, and his wine maker grand-daughter Karishma. A technical collaboration with Michel Rolland, merger with Zampa in Nashik, and various equity infusions by private players – domestic and international – and the company sits in the top league of Indian wines with a respectable presence globally. Nearly a 100 awards since 2013 in India and overseas are testimony to this.
To mark their first vintage in 1992, Grover Zampa Vineyards – Indian Pioneer & Most Awarded Producer – hosted the “25 years of winemaking” milestone celebrations at The Leela Ambience Gurugram.
Vertical Tasting
First up, a special vertical tasting of the flagship La Reserve from 3 vintages in the current decade titled “Epitome of Indian Reserve – the evolution of India’s finest reserve”. Led by Karishma Grover, assisted in questions by Kapil Grover in the audience.
A label that has been crafted by Michel Rolland over the years, and whose story captures so well the history of ‘fine’ wine in India. The first vintage of La Reserve was released in 1998. The Grovers respect the legacy they have inherited and insist that it is created with reverence for tradition from the fruit of the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz vines. Matured during 6 months in French oak barrels, the wine shows characteristics of much complexity.
La Réserve
La Réserve 2011
Medium bodied. Concentration of fruit and elegant spices. Easy drinking, despite its age.
La Réserve 2013
Hints of chocolate on the nose. Silky tannins coat cherries. Medium finish. Stand-out wine.
La Réserve 2015
Young. Oak is rather prominent. Tannins softening, but need time. Medium finish. Balanced.
Food and Wine Pairing
Next, a food and wine pairing led by Karishma Grover that showcased a selection of 5 wines ranging from sparkling, white, rose, and red wines with typical Indian delights that were chosen by Executive Chef Neeraj Rawoot of Leela Ambience Gurugram. Surprisingly, and sadly, the co-ordination of the plates and the glasses was woefully missing and the delays in service didn’t allow the whole room to be tuned in.
Pairing
Zampa Soiree Brut 2014 with Marwari Double
100% Chenin Blanc. Straw colour. Fresh and citrusy, with a lingering taste.
VERDICT : A Live-in relationship where contrasts sort themselves out.
La Réserve Blanc 2016 with Tandoori Prawns
100% Viognier (with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc). Pale yellow. Tropical fruit with soft oak finish. Rich.
VERDICT : A Marriage where both balance each other well.
Art Collection Rose 2016 with Kerala Pomfret
100% Shiraz. Light cherry colour. Poolside drinking wine. Nice berries. Short soft finish.
VERDICT : A Courtship where both work hard to complement each other.
Art Collection Cabernet Shiraz 2017 with Bhatti Murg
Deep garnet colour. Intense black berries and spice. Fullish body. Lasting finish.
VERDICT : A happy Marriage where both are in perfect harmony despite sharp contrasts.
Vijay Amritraj (VA) Réserve Collection Red with Burra Kebab
Deep purple. Berries and spice with a hint of oak. Strong in-your-face.
VERDICT : A date where both are at their best to show their best.
Bottles
Rajiv Singhal joined the celebrations to mark the “25 years of winemaking” milestone at The Leela Ambience Gurugram
O T H E R     S T O R I E S
Wines of South Australia – in India
Sake Time
Wine and Women – from Australia